A dog that pulls is the number one reason people stop enjoying walks. And it’s almost always approached the wrong way, because it’s treated as an obedience problem when it’s actually a learning issue.
Why does your dog pull on the leash?
For two very simple reasons:
- They walk faster than you. Their natural pace is faster than ours. A taut leash is, for them, the normal state of things.
- It has worked for them their whole life. They pull, and they move forward. They pull, and they get to the good-smelling tree sooner. From their point of view, pulling is a strategy with an impeccable track record.
There is a third factor that almost no one takes into account: the opposition reflex. When something pulls a dog backward, their instinct is to push forward. The more you pull, the more they pull. They aren’t challenging you: it’s a reflex.
What leash and harness should you use?
Before you start training, check what you’re taking out with you. With the wrong equipment, even the best training in the world is an uphill battle.
- A harness instead of a collar. A dog that pulls on a collar is compressing its trachea with every tug. A harness distributes the force across the chest.
- A front ring if they pull a lot. Attaching the leash to the chest, rather than the back, makes the dog turn toward you when they pull instead of moving forward. It’s not magic, but it takes the power out of the pull and gives you room to work.
- A fixed-length leash, 1.5 to 2 meters long. Retractable leashes teach exactly the opposite of what you want: that pulling gets you more rope.
- A control handle if they are large. A short handle on the back of the harness lets you hold them firmly when crossing or passing another dog, without jerking the leash.
The method: stop rewarding the pull
The idea is simple: pulling stops working. Everything else is just a variation.
- Taut leash, still feet. As soon as the leash becomes taut, stop. Don’t pull, don’t scold them. Simply stop moving forward.
- Wait. Sooner or later they will slacken the leash, even if only for a second, or they will turn to look at you.
- Slack leash, the walk continues. At that moment, resume walking. Moving forward is the reward.
- Reinforce when they walk by your side. A small treat delivered at the exact second they are at your side is worth more than ten corrections.
The first walks will be slow and frustrating. That’s normal: you’re undoing a habit that has taken months or years to form.
Three details that speed up the process significantly
- Take them out when they’re tired. Ten minutes of play before heading out greatly reduces anxiety during the first few meters, which is when they pull the most.
- Keep treats within easy reach. If you have to rummage around in your pocket, you’ll be too late. A waist pouch lets you reward them at just the right moment, which is the only thing the dog associates with what they’ve just done.
- Let them sniff. Set aside parts of the walk for them to sniff to their heart’s content. A dog that is never allowed to sniff will pull more, because the entire walk becomes a negotiation.
How long does it take for them to stop pulling?
With daily consistency, most dogs show noticeable improvement in two or three weeks. The key isn’t being strict; it’s making sure the rule is never broken: if one day they pull and you let them move forward because you’re late for something, you’ve taken a step backward.
In our dog walking section, you’ll find harnesses with front rings and control handles, fixed-length leashes, and retractable leashes, and in training, waist treat pouches. Free shipping throughout Spain.
If you prefer to get everything at once, the Walk, Travel and Safety Pack lets you choose what you need from harnesses, leashes, trackers, and carriers.